January 9, 2004 Poughkeepsie Journal

Diaspora adds a Greek twist to Mediterranean cuisine

By Lori Pierce Abendschein
For the Poughkeepsie Journal

After passing by Diaspora’s remote location outside the village of Rhinebeck several times, my curiosity was piqued by this new restaurant.

The building has undergone a tremendous amount of renovation, and the inside of Diaspora is bright and welcoming, with cheerful yellow walls, linen-clothed hardwood tables, acanthus-patterned carpeting and a gas fireplace that add to the warmth of the intimate dining area that accommodates approximately 50.

We were graciously welcomed for the evening by our server, who introduced us to Samena, a Greek white wine which we sipped enthusiastically while nibbling on bites of pita with herbed olive oil and pondering chef/proprietor John Papakonstantis’ menu of Mediterranean specialties, many of which receive a Greek twist.

We started with a plate of pan-fried cod croquettes ($8.25) that were delicious with thin, crunchy coatings of breadcrumbs and surrounded by rosettes of fabulously intense Greek garlic sauce.

Sample signature cheese

I took our server’s sage advice and ordered saganaki — two lofty slices of egg-battered and fried kasseri cheese ($5.95). Kasseri possesses a texture similar to mozzarella, which accompanied by a salad of finely chopped tomatoes and fresh lemon made this a fine choice. We also favored the soup of the evening — an aromatic red fish chowder of salt-cured cod that burst with flavor.

Other appetizers worth consideration include taramosalata ($5.95) — fish roe spread served with garlic bread, scallions and olives; pan-fried zucchini ($4.25); or clams steamed with rosemary and garlic ($8.25).

Salads come in ample portions and serve up to four people. Choose from Greek villagers ($8.50), Romaine lettuce with scallions and fresh dill ($7.25) or a plate of vine-ripened tomatoes with onion and oregano ($8).

For dinner, there is an extensive list of possibilities beginning with pasta, vegetarian specialties, seafood and meat. My personal favorite is pastitsio ($12.50) — a dish that our waitress claimed to be one of chef pasta, vegetarian specialties, seafood and meat. My personal favorite is pastitsio ($12.50) — a dish that our waitress claimed to be one of chef Papakonstantis’ best. There was no doubt in my mind when I tasted the layers of light billowy custard, seasoned ground lamb and pasta. Another dish that captured my attention was the vegetable moussaka ($13.50) — a multi-layered adventure of vegetables amid a cheese custard.

Specials offer variety

Meat eaters may be drawn to the list of items that includes grilled rib steak ($15.50), an oven-roasted leg of lamb ($13.50) or even roasted chicken with garlic sauce ($13.95). Seafood entrees include dishes such as baked cod with tomato and fresh mint ($17.25), broiled sea bass with basil oil ($15.95) or peppery shellfish stew ($15.25).

The evening specials were especially enticing. It’s difficult to find fault with a bowl of ultra fresh clams and mussels, especially when served in a shrimp consomme. Another special of sauteed chicken breast and shrimp was also quite good in a creamy roasted red pepper sauce accompanied by a wholesome rice pilaf and crisp green beans.

For dessert ($3.95-$4.50), some may prefer the traditional baklava. I found galaktobouriko — a semolina custard encased in flaky layers of phyllo with its accompanying honey sauce — superb. A rice pudding received an unusual bend on the traditional, prepared with Asian bamboo rice, which gave it an earthy green flavor. A wedge of pumpkin cheesecake was bland.

Chef Papakonstantis has achieved much, having been open less than one year, offering a pleasing and inviting ambience coupled with a Mediterranean menu that makes you feel a bit adventuresome.

The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Lori Pierce Abendschein is a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America and a member of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs.